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CoinHunter53562
1000+ Penny Miser Member
USA
1805 Posts |
 Posted - 04/05/2009 : 15:09:49
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What do you guys use as a guideline for pricing/selling coins in AG condition? I have heard one dealer tell me that 2/3 of the "G" value is a good starting point, and that you can knock off a couple more percentage points for problems like corrosion, rim nicks, and so on. So I am curious, if you have to buy one to fill a hole (say it's a key date and the higher grades are out of your budget), what do you consider a fair price?
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My hobby: collecting real money 1 copper cent or nickel at a time.
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just carl
Penny Hoarding Member
USA
601 Posts |
Posted - 04/13/2009 : 08:06:48
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| Your question is way to vague. For example a 1987 Lincoln cent in G-4 is worth $0.01 where as a 1914D Lincoln Cent in G-4 is worth a few hundred dollars. Other coins are in the same situations. Some G-4 coins could be worth thousands and others nothing at all. Your question would have to be based on the coin itself. |
Carl |
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CoinHunter53562
1000+ Penny Miser Member
USA
1805 Posts |
Posted - 04/13/2009 : 08:22:15
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quote:
Originally posted by just carl
Your question is way to vague. For example a 1987 Lincoln cent in G-4 is worth $0.01 where as a 1914D Lincoln Cent in G-4 is worth a few hundred dollars. Other coins are in the same situations. Some G-4 coins could be worth thousands and others nothing at all. Your question would have to be based on the coin itself.
It's not vague at all. I asked this question: "So I am curious, if you have to buy one to fill a hole (say it's a key date and the higher grades are out of your budget), what do you consider a fair price?"
Your example of a 1987 lincoln cent obviously does not fill the parameters given in the original post, while the 1914-D Lincoln cent does so you are comparing apples to oranges.
I'm not looking for specific examples, otherwise I would have given specifics in my original post. I am asking if people have a general starting point that they use as a basis. |
My hobby: collecting real money 1 copper cent or nickel at a time.
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Flbandit
Penny Hoarding Member
USA
851 Posts |
Posted - 04/13/2009 : 17:45:32
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| I'll usually go about 1/2 to 2/3 the G4 value, depending on what it is. Many are still out of my reach even then! |
Are you throwing that out? |
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fb101
Administrator
USA
2856 Posts |
Posted - 04/13/2009 : 17:53:24
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| I'd go along with flbandit. |
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CoinHunter53562
1000+ Penny Miser Member
USA
1805 Posts |
Posted - 04/13/2009 : 18:08:29
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| Sounds good...thanks for the replies guys. That pretty much falls in line with what I have heard out there in the marketplace. |
My hobby: collecting real money 1 copper cent or nickel at a time.
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Computer Jones
1000+ Penny Miser Member
USA
1112 Posts |
Posted - 04/13/2009 : 22:25:40
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| Bottom line is if you like it and want it, the price usually is secondary. |
There's profit if you melt things!!
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ScottyTX
Penny Hoarding Member
USA
508 Posts |
Posted - 04/16/2009 : 21:36:37
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The only thing I can think of off hand, is to check the pcgs price guide for the lower grades. They usually have prices listed from 1-65 or so(thats if you change the grading scales at the top). The prices are obviously inflated and are only meant for PCGS slabbed specimens, but I'm almost thinking for a starting point you could figure out a % increase/decrease on the price for the particular type/date/mint/condition from their (PCGS) g-4/vg-8 price, and maybe get somewhere in the neighborhood by applying that percentage to lets say a greysheet G-4/vg-8 price or something to that extent. I'm thinking the markup percentages from grade to grade have to be somewhere in the same neighborhood between raw and PCGS slabbed coins. So lets say you had a coin grade out at AG-3, and you figured from working the percentages from PCGS that the actual value should be about oh lets say 23% less than the G-4 of what ever your using to price it with (Rec book, greysheet, or whatever), seems to me that would be an acceptable method. Maybe I'm a little off base or its too much work, but seems to make sense in my head right now!!
Scotty |
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just carl
Penny Hoarding Member
USA
601 Posts |
Posted - 04/20/2009 : 14:37:46
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Here is what most dealers and collectors I know do with prices if not using the grey sheet which most do. Look at the Numismedia prices, Also the Red Book prices, then the PCGS prices. If a coin is approximately the same price on those listings, just reduce by approximately 20%. This is what you would expect to find for a general pricing at coin stores or shows. Naturally on ebay or other on line sources those prices could vary dramatically since you really are not sure of what your getting and/or if what is shown is what you'll get. Another problem with on line prices is the postage, handling, return policies, restocking fees, insurance costs.
Even in the grey sheet and other sources at times there is no listing for specific grades and when you find one the actual price is then difficult to know what it should be.
A good example of this is the Roosevelt Dime. In the Red Book and many other sources there is no prices for many of them below EF-40. This does not mean they are only worth $0.10. Such prices now become mostly a guess or some use about 1/3 of the EF-40 price for sale purposes.
Another problem is price and demand. If dealers see there is a lot of interest in Roosevelt Dimes in their area or on line, they will naturally increase the prices of those coins.
As I was attempting to point out previously the prices of any coin is vague since there is no manufacturers list prices available. Only and mostly price and demand. That also is primary over amounts minted since if no one is buying a certain coin, the prices just are not high.
Even some sort of key dated coins if not in demand due to numerous reasons, the prices are not consistant with a formula. Examples of this is the 31S Lincoln Cent or the 31D Mercury Dime of real low mintages but way to many available so the prices just barely climb from grade to grade.
The above is why I first stated this is a vague type of question. If a person goes to coin shows with expectations of a formula for pricing coins, they become very confused since nothing would normally fit this system. |
Carl |
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Fair price for coins in AG condition
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